January 8

 

Swell: Really BIG on the coast…

Wind: Not much

Air temp: Not bad

Water temp: After five hours, really cold…

Crowd: Hey, it’s Monday…

 

(above) First check,funky…

 

(above) Next stop, more better……

 

(above) Yeah, it’s as good as it looks…

 

(above) I shot these while scrambling to get in my wetsuit…!!...

 

(above) One of the smaller sets…

 

(above) This makes all the driving worth it…

 

(above) After five hours, my fingers thawed out enough to snap one more…

Paul

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