January 16

Swell: Straight West 6’+ @ 14 -19 sec.

Wind: Straight East @ 15 -25 kt

Air Temp: 33 deg.

Water Temp: Brrrrr…

 

It has been a while since I got good waves on the coast…Too much real work, time moving our daughter to Canada, record snow and flooding, and a lack of offshore winds…Not the best of years…

 

The forecast has been encouraging…Long interval swell with east winds…What I live for…

 

My first look over the dunes…

 

I decided quick to hit it…

 

Just like the good old days…

 

I rode my trusty 11’6” mostly down the beach on lefts like this…Bigger than it looks…

 

After four hours I got out and walked out for a better view and froze my megapixels…

 

By now the tide was bottomed out and the wind was making the waves more ragged…

 

Still, not too bad for a beachbreak…

 

The swell lines were just short of magnificent…

 

A few guys were riding ‘em, but most were not able to penetrate the offshore wind…If only they had heavier (30+#) boards… 

 

Bright sunlight and FREEZING wind…Ah, January…

 

Yes, that caught inside feeling…

 

Far outside, another set goes unridden…Check the guy inside for scale…

 

The swell is still coming up and the wind is ramping higher too…

 

One last look before walking out and heading home…

Paul

Back to>>>> Yeah, it gets good