4-3

 

Swell: 6’ West @ 14 sec.

Wind: East @ 10 – 20 kt.

Air Temp: 31 deg.

Water Temp: Mid 40’s

Overall Conditions: Classic

 

The previous week had been varied swells with bad winds…

The NWS forecast East winds for a day, then returning to the dreaded Souths…

I saw it coming a few days in advance, so I planned a ½ day off…

Mike Cummins joined me…

 

 

(above) Mike has a first look…

Low tide, still going out for an hour…

About 5 minutes earlier our friend Tom was here checking it out and decided to turn around and go home after doing the 1.25 hour drive to get here…???...

I really have a hard time understanding that…

Perhaps he didn’t look in the Corner…???...

 

 

(above) The Corner was screaming “get out here…!!!...”

 

 

(above) No further convincing required…

 

Mike and I shared waves like this for about an hour before guys trickled out one by one…

The surf was pretty consistent and got bigger and better as the tide pulled up…

We were stoked out of our minds…!!!!...

 

 

(above) There were some solid overhead sets about every ten minutes…

 

 

(above) After the Corner had eight guys out, it felt too crowed for me,

so I paddled down the beach to these empty peaks…

These waves had some solid power and held up perfectly in the hard offshore winds…

Size: overhead plus…

 

These were the first real lefts I rode my new 7’11” Hollow Quad on…

It works like a dream…

The quad fin set-up is Valid…

I love it…!!!...

 

 

(above) Here’s Mike on his final wave in the Corner …

Photo 1 of 3…

 

 

(above) Mike - 2 of 3

 

 

(above) Mike - 3 of 3

 

 

(above) As usual, lots of empty waves up and down the beach…

 

 

(above) A mid beach right…

 

 

(above) So how’s the surf your way…???...

 

Paul

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