October 12

Swell: West 7’ @ 14 sec,

Wind: East 10 > 20 kt.

Water Temp: Brrrrr…

Air Temp: Low 40’s but feels colder…

With an overly full weekend of hard yard-work and home remodeling behind me, the Monday forecast for decent surf looked promising…The pattern will soon change to storm conditions that might go on for months before we get another offshore day…Who knows…???...

I was at the beach well before first light and checked out the conditions…The swell was strong with few lulls…I decided to watch for a while before suiting up… So I walked to the jetty with my camera and surveyed the line-up, channels, impact zones and escape routes… You know, get a closer feel for which peak to surf…

To make a long story short, I ended up taking pictures for a few hours and not going out…I really felt tired from the weekend of hard home work and looked at the surf and saw the beatings everyone was taking and realized if I went out and surfed, I would get some waves, but I also saw myself getting caught inside and getting worked…Hard…Add to that the 5-4 wetsuit in and out wrestle, and I just couldn’t get stoked enough to hit it…I did not want to start the week on the significant minus side of energy needed to get through real life…Oh, if I only spent the weekend a different way…Next time…

The up side is you get a bigger picture of what an early winter swell up here looks like…Mind surf and enjoy…

Paul

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