10-22

I got up at 2:45am,  drove  3 hours to the land of100 yard left cobblestone points ....

The tide was low coming in ... Perfect ...

The wind was non-existent ... Perfect ...

And the swell was predicted to peak at 11' @ 9 sec. with the incoming tide ... Maybe ...

This is the Land Of Fickle  after all ...

 I got to the empty parking lot and walked out to see if the swell was there...

I took a few pictures of the low tide rights …

 Just like playing a slot machine in Vegas, doing the long drive to here was like me buying the chips ... Waxing and suiting up was like pulling the lever ... Paddling across the river and hiking to the point was like watching two 7's line up ... The final 7 locked in place when I paddled out and stroked into the first wave... 

I rode my new board for the first time, the 9'1" foam / carbon fiber hollow ... It was perfectly suited for these waves ... After a steep fast drop,  the wave lined up fast through the inside and wound down the point, allowing the board to roll from railto rail off of the rounded belly bottom of the board ... It was smooth, fast and loose...Perfect...!!!...

The waves were chest to head high at the peak and dropped down to waist high as the wave ground over the gin clear, cobblestone bottom point ... There was a lot of bull kelp at low tide, but that disappeared as the tide filled in ... And with the tide, the swell came up, and the consistency increased ... Perfect ...!!!...

After I've been out for about 3 hours surfing with just two other guys out, some Local guys come out ... Friendly competent shortboarders ... They paddle out to the peak and crowd the takeoff ... That's cool, I'll sit inside ... I'm still getting waves, but I want a few more from outside ... So I paddle 20 yards deeper, not further out, than the pack ... As the sets com the first two waves of the set hit the beach more perpendicular, and the peak is the place to be ... But the third wave of the set seems to have more wrap and pinwheels into the point allowing me to take and make the waves from my further back position ... A bit overhead and screaming through the takeoff bowl ... Even with my diminished hearing, I heard more than one voice hoot as I was pulling my bottom turn, setting up for a ride through the slot machine ... Locals hoot a visitor ...???...  I'll take that ...

At about 11:30 the wind came up and I went in ...

Surfed out after 5.5 hours , slightly sunburned and blissful ...

A good day for a maiden voyage...

Paul

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